A new direction.
Mumbai is located at 18 degrees North and 72 degrees East but that didn’t matter to the owners of this place. They seem to like mixing it up. The green leather upholstery, wood panels (with a red neon sign that says “Bar”) and MTV playlist give it a casual pub feel. Except that the food is significantly fancier and we weren’t the only ones who noticed. The call-centre kids at the next table had a rather loud debate about the prices.
The chicken tapenada (Rs 180) came generously slathered in a briny, black-olive mash and the prawns verture (Rs 160), had a zingy lemon and red chilli marinade. Both would make for great bar snacks if the portions weren’t so stingy (something else our astute neighbours pointed out). “They’re mad or what?” a twentysomething complained as he smoothed down his hair using his helmet as a mirror. “It’s nice and all but Sun-Moon, Vertigo and Pop’s are right here.” That’s Sun, Moon and Potatoes (which serves up continental fare), Vertigo ( a rock blaring pub) and Pop Tates (for all-day boozing).
We might have agreed with the kids if we hadn’t sampled our mains. The osso bucco (Rs 325), an Italian stew of braised lamb shanks, was served on a bed of cheesy risotto. The meat all but melted off the bone and the stew had the delicate flavour of a dish that had been long simmering on the flame. We wished it came with with mashed potatoes and steamed veggies. The risotto was just a distraction. By the time our chicken roast (Rs 250) arrived, the call-centre crew was replaced by a middle-aged couple indulging in a lazy mid-week lunch. This, we suspect is more 72 Degrees North’s demographic. It’s the sort of place you drop in to have a hearty meal rather than some quick after-work chow. If only they’d get rid of that annoying music. Neha Sumitran
72 Degrees North Jagdamba Commercial Complex, Movie Time Compound, near Pop Tate’s, off Link Road, Malad (W) (2883-6621). Meal for two Rs 1,100 including alcohol. MC, V. |
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